QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT

Above: Reproduction Print and Document

Thursday, February 23, 2017

Repro of a Repro of a Repro of an Indienne


Indienne (detail), Wood block printing on cotton, factory Oberkampf in Jouy, 1785

Way at the top of the blog page I've posted a picture of a repro print I did a few years ago in a line called Lately Arrived from London with the document print I copied it from.

Directly above is the same print from the The Museum of Printed Textiles in Mulhouse, France. Could my document print be as old as 1785?  Is it the oldest piece of fabric in my collection?


My piece of chintz on the left,
 white colorway of the repro print I called Seaflower
in the center and tan colorway on the right.


I am reading Susan W. Greene's estimable book Wearable Prints 1760-1860. She shows two versions of the same print with the Oberkampf print being the newer one (page 97). The print on the left above is a little more crude in the drawing and printing style. She believes it to be an Indian chintz that inspired the Oberkampf print.

I wonder about my example, though. It is not the same colors as the Jouy museum's print.

Mine is stained but the original colors seem clear, and the blues and purples
just aren't the same as the earlier prints. I think I have a later copy of the Oberkampf print.

Much like this one with the same bright colors.
Perhaps late 19th-c to early 20th?
I recall a friend of a friend gave it to me years ago.

The Seaflower repro. We didn't do the purples.


Seaflower in the background of Roseanne Smith's star quilt.

So the Seaflower print is a repro of a repro of a repro of an Indian chintz.

The tan colorway

I wish I could tell you where to buy some yardage of the six-year-old Seaflower repro but it seems to be sold out. I did find several other prints from Lately Arrived from London still available online. If you do a web search for Lately Arrived from London you might find some.

I can, however,  tell you where to buy Susan W Greene's book Wearable Prints 1760-1860.
It's a must-have if you are interested in historic fabrics. The subtitle says it all:
History, Materials and Mechanics.

A little more about the Lately Arrived from London collection from 2011.

Roseanne's quilt before the border.

And after.
Now she has to quilt it.

Monday, February 20, 2017

Past Perfect: Sue Garman

Detail from Borrowed Roses by Sue Garman

This month's Past Perfect Quiltmaker is Sue Garman. I'd been thinking about showing Sue's quilts and then she passed away last month, much to the sorrow of her friends, family and fellow classical quilters. Here's a tribute to an important quiltmaker and designer of our time.

Borrowed Roses was inspired by Rose Kretsinger's 1929 quilt
in the collection of the Spencer Museum of Art.

See the original Rose Tree quilt here:


Sue Garman with one of her non-traditional quilts
From the Quilt Show.

On her webpage Sue said she had been making quilts for 40 years and that's why she had so many great ones to show.  That is not all of it---or even half of it. She had a real gift for interpreting quilts from the past, occasionally exact copies like the Borrowed Roses, often clever interpretations.

Twirly Balls & Pinwheels

Lily Rosenberry
In recent years she'd inspired many with her applique quilts.
She certainly knew how to fill a square block.

Baltimore Squared

Pennsylvania Star

Her color sense was enviable too. She could capture 19th-century shades and go out on a limb by pushing them too.

Tucker's Tulips

My Old Kentucky Beau

Postage Due


Sleeping Beauty

The Washingtonian

My Country Tis of Thee

Detail of Sue's Borrowed Roses

Sue in Texas was a lot like Rose Kretsinger of Emporia, Kansas, who inspired a small revival of classic applique in the 1930s.  Like Rose, Sue was innovative, generous and just a touch competitive.

People wonder why so many masterpiece quilts came out of Emporia, Kansas. In the future they may wonder why so many classics came out of Houston, Texas.

Patricia Meyer's Texas Two Step used  Sue's Lily Rosenberry block for the corners.

Sue through exhibiting her quilts, teaching, publishing  patterns and blogging and inspired a larger revival of classic applique in her own time. 
Georgann Wrinkle's Little Lily from Sue's blog.

We can envy the friends in her small bee who seem to have received periodic patterns and challenges from Sue.

Student's work in a class. Rebecca's Stars.

Sue's daughters are maintaining her webpage, blog and the pattern business. The webpage Come Quilt has lots to see under patterns and gallery.

The blog (quite a lonely place without Sue) is worth scrolling backwards through the monthly posts for insight into her designing and her recording of the things she saw that impressed her.

Halo Medallion

The 2017 Block of the Month on the Quilt Show is a Sue Garman design, pieced by Carolyn Hock
and quilted by Angela Walters.


There's an Instagram page for Sue's quilts. Click here and add some with the tag #suegarmanquilt

Any ideas for a traditional quiltmaker I can feature on a Past Perfect post here?


Friday, February 17, 2017

Margaret Dodge Quilts

This Mariner's Compass quilt in the collection of Colonial Williamsburg recently caught my eye,
not only because it is spectacular (do note fussy cut paisleys)....



but because it is attributed to Margaret Dodge Sutton of Brooklyn, New York. Now there was something going on quilt-wise in Brooklyn, New York, in the mid-19th century so anytime I see Brooklyn my eyes light up. And any time I see the name Margaret Dodge ....

Album Quilt made by Margaret English Wood Dodge in Brooklyn.
Collection of the DAR Museum
See the file on this quilt at the Quilt Index here:
http://www.quiltindex.org/fulldisplay.php?kid=46-7A-C7

I have recently been working on patterns for a quilt inspired by one made by a Margaret Dodge of Brooklyn. You may have made my Dixie Diary block-of-the-month quilt in 2013, which owes a lot to this Margaret's blocks.

Detail from Margaret Dodge's quilt

Particularly in the star and heart appliques.

Dixie Diary by MooseBayMuses

Another fussy-cut paisley in the Colonial Williamsburg quilt.

Margaret's album is charming and Margaret made a lot of quilts, but I cannot believe she also made the masterpiece quilt at the top of the post. It's just not her style. There must have been two Margaret Dodges in Brooklyn and indeed there were.

Margaret English Wood Dodge (1783-1873) was the grandmother of Margaret Dodge Marschalk Sutton (1826-1907). They probably have known each other well as the elder Margaret lived until the younger one was in her sixties.

The link between the two Margarets is Clarissa Mary Dodge Marschalk (1803-1838) daughter of one and mother to the other. Clarissa died when her daughter Margaret was about 12 years old. The younger Margaret's father Girard Steddiford Marschalk (1801-1827) had died when she was a baby. Who raised her?

Fussy-cut paisley from Grandmother's Quilt

Fussy-cut paisley from the Mariner's Compass quilt.

But perhaps granddaughter Margaret didn't make this Mariner's Compass.
There's a curious detail at the end of the cataloging information online.  
"The quilt descended from the maker Margaret Dodge Marschalk Sutton (1826-1907) to her daughter Louise Marschalk Sutton (b. 1871). The quilt descended through Louise to a great-grandson of Margaret's, Robert W. Pitt, who donated it to the museum.
Mark(s):A printed calling card for Mrs. Louise Marschalk Chapman was pinned to the quilt when the object was acquired; the reverse of the card bears the ink script inscription 'Designed and made/one hundred years/ago by Clarissa Dodge/Marschalk and left/to/Louise Marschalk Chapman.' "
Why did the family believe that Margaret Sutton made the quilt when the card from Margaret Sutton's daughter indicated that Clarissa Marschalk stitched it? 

Clarissa died in 1838. Could this quilt have been made by her before 1838?  There were certainly Mariner's Compass quilts being made in the 1830s. 

Quilt date-inscribed 1831 from the North Carolina project and the Quilt Index.
Attributed to Jean-Marie Frontis.

The Turkey red and Prussian blue blocks in the Dodge quilt are more typical of the 1840s but the chintz sashing and borders were classic 1830s style.

See more quilts from the remarkable Grandmother Margaret Wood Dodge at this post:

The women:
Margaret English Wood Dodge (1783-1873)
        Clarissa Mary Dodge Marschalk (1803-1838)
               Margaret Dodge Marschalk Sutton (1826-1907 or 1909)
                      Louise Marschalk Sutton Chapman (1871-?) (Could someone be lying about her age?)

See some genealogy here:
http://wc.rootsweb.ancestry.com/cgi-bin/igm.cgi?op=DESC&db=mbwheeler&id=I062602

And More on the DIXIE DIARY BOM here:

Carol at Carol's Artless Fabrications framed each Dixie Diary block with 
a Flying Geese design. Pretty spectacular.

I'm now offering the paper patterns by mail or downloadable PDFs for the Dixie Diary BOM in my Etsy Store. (Note: No pattern for Carol's flying geese frames.)
Buy the complete pattern package in PDF form, which you can print yourself in color or black and white. $15
https://www.etsy.com/listing/512000439/dixie-diary-bom-civil-war-quilts-sampler?ref=related-1

I will print these out in black & white and mail them to you for $22.50
See this listing to buy the paper patterns.


Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Heart Cut-Outs

Happy Valentine's Day!
A day for hearts and flowers


Today we can enjoy some cut-paper heart quilt patterns. (#9.8 in my Encyclopedia of Applique.)

Or if the design has eight elements rotating around a center instead of four it's a #24.4 variation.
Which Elly Sienkiewicz called Double Hearts

From an old Quilt Engagement Calendar

Similar block from Jeffrey Evans Auction.
Both probably 1840-1865

And another...from Stella Rubin


The earliest printed name for the general style of four elements is Friendship Quilt,
about 1890 from the Ladies' Art Company.
A very simple version


There is some variety in the shapes as you'd expect in a hand cut pattern.

Many of these are from online auctions.
Some  just the basics---8 hearts

From Julie Silber's inventory

Some with everything plus


Dated 1843
They are not all red.





A lot of them are blue

Here's one from an auction in Manilus, New York recently.

When I first started gathering pictures of quilts I noticed this pattern as something often seen in New York.
Here's the Blauvelt family album from Rockland County, NY with a couple of these heart applique blocks.


Sampler dated 1894

But that is just an observation. You see the pattern elsewhere.
Like in Ohio's Miami Valley---this sampler from Sue Cummings's book.
Late 19th-early 20th century style there.

[Note the example in the upper left on the cover.]


Elsewhere like Wales---
And Ireland

And is it a heart?
A spade?
A leaf?
There are many versions in green.

Ftom Vintage Blessings online shop

This family quilt was seen in the Oregon project, attributed to
Irene Latham Phair of  Massachusetts by her family


You hear it sometimes called Hearts & Darts today.
Maybe that's Cupid's Arrow with the heart?



Here's a pattern for a mid-19th-c version in  Turkey red.
It will print out 8". Print it at 150% to fit a 15" block.